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Ingredient Glossary

Dermelect resolves to be a forerunner of emerging trends by continuously developing new and original products and to effectively be able to adapt to change. Only the utmost, quality ingredients are used to create a prestigious and intelligent product under the highest standards. We strive to provide results-driven, reparative treatments for all skin types.
All Dermelect products are dermatologist recommended, tested for purity and not tested on animals.


AHA: An active ingredient derived from fruit acids. Helps exfoliate and moisturize the top layers of the skin: promotes moisture restoration and helps penetration of other ingredients; used in anti-aging skin care products. AHA’s include: citric acid (citrus fruits), glycolic acid (sugar cane), lactic acid (milk), and the less common AHAs used in cosmetics malic acid (apples) and tartaric acid (wine).

Aligisium C: an organic derivative of seaweed that binds moisture in the epidermis, firming and strengthening the skin for an improved texture. Also acts as an anti-oxidant (free radical protection) to actively prevent the acceleration of premature aging from environmental aggressors.

Allantoin: moisturizing and keratolytic, meaning that it causes keratin in the skin to soften. This property helps skin to heal more quickly and to bind moisture more effectively, making it useful for dry skin and for healing wounds, burns, scarsand similar skin irritations.

Aloe Vera: A moisture storehouse for enzymes, vitamins, proteins, and minerals that support skin functions, Aloe Vera helps maintain the skin's moisture balance and stimulates blood circulation. Tightens and rejuvenates skin leaving it silky feeling.

Alp Rose (Plant) Stem Cell: extracted from the Swiss Alpine Rose: Nature has bestowed this 'super flower' with the finest properties to improve the skin's barrier function against environmental damage by increasing its self-renewal ability.

Alpha Hydroxy: An active ingredient derived from fruit acids. Helps exfoliate and moisturize the top layers of the skin: promotes moisture restoration and helps penetration of other ingredients; used in anti-aging skin care products. AHA’s include: citric acid (citrus fruits), glycolic acid (sugar cane), lactic acid (milk), and the less common AHAs used in cosmetics malic acid (apples) and tartaric acid (wine).

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA): an active ingredient derived from fruit acids. Helps exfoliate and moisturize the top layers of the skin: promotes moisture restoration and helps penetration of other ingredients

Arbutin: a derivative of the Bearberry extract. A natural double-whitening agent that functions as a brightener to shadowy under-nose pigmentation, especially noticeable after hair removal and waxing. A potent, natural tyrosine inhibitor that acts like an anti-oxidant to safely lighten skin tone. Results similar to Hydroquinone but without toxicity, stimulation, unpleasant odor and side effects.

Argan Oil: A powerful antioxidant rich with vitamins and natural elements that fortify the skin including Vitamin A to improve elasticity, Vitamin E to protect against free-radicals, and Phenols to shield against environmental stressors.

Argireline®: an advanced hexapeptide containing six amino acids that improves the appearance of aging skin. C ontains Acetyl-Hexapeptide 3, which is clinically proven to relax tension in the skin, hold in moisture, reduce the appearance of existing wrinkles and prevent the development of new ones.

  • Diminishes facial lines by 60% or more
  • Relaxes facial muscles to take stress off your skin
  • Assists in the prevention of future wrinkles

Arnica Extract: soothing, anti-inflammatory

Avocado Oil: The oil from the seed and the pulp of an avocado is used in creams and lotions because of its nourishing and conditioning effects on dry skin and hair. It has been found to significantly increase the water-soluble collagen content in the dermis skin layer. The oil contains protein, vitamins A, D, and E, and some amino acids.

Azulene: A chamomile extract derived from German chamomile that is used in face and body creams, sunburn remedies, burn ointments, and bath salts. Produces calming and soothing effects and is known to be both anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic. Effective for sensitive skin and Rosacea. Affects skin metabolism, improving regeneration through anti-oxidant activity. Been shown to exhibit dramatic anti-inflammatory effects and significant antioxidant protection.

Beta Hydroxy: Salicylic acid. An exfoliating agent capable of softening the skin and causing the shedding of the top layers of dead skin cells. It is also used to enhance the absorption and penetration into the skin of other ingredients that are in the same cosmetic formulation. Used to renews cells and plump out finer wrinkles. Good for acne-prone or sensitive skin.

Beta Hydroxy (BHA): Salicylic acid; an exfoliating agent capable of softening the skin and causing the shedding of the top layers of dead skin cells

Butcher’s Broom: A botanical extract used to improve circulation and reduce redness.

BV-OSC: the most powerful, multi-active form of vitamin C available to brighten the skin and help repair the affects of environmental damage. Will not irritate the skin and can mitigate the damaging effects of UV exposure. Promotes a more even skin tone, stimulates collagen production as well as clarifying and brightening the skin by inhibiting melanogenesis (the production of pigment).

Caffeine: Used to alleviate puffiness and temporarily shrink dimpled tissue.

Chamomile: Extracted from the white and yellow heads of this daisy-like plant (chamomile flowers) and is used as an excellent skin soother and anti-inflammatory agent. It is reputed to bring down swelling and pain in the skin and mucous membranes. Chamomile is used extensively in professional skin care products for its essential oil called azulene. It also calms eczema and allergic reactions. It acts as an emollient, anti-inflammatory, skin soothing agent and provides antioxidation.

Coenzyme Q 10: Contains exceptional antioxidant properties that effectively counteracts free radical damage, providing extra protection for the skin. It helps prevent damage to the collagen and elastin production process while working to help you avoid wrinkles.

Collagen: The main supporting fiber located within the dermis, gives strength and provides structure to the skin. Topical collagen is able to moisturize and hydrate by holding many times its own weight in water. Collagen is a natural substance within body tissues. It is a protein that serves as the support structure for the skin and all other connective tissues. In human skin, collagen fibers comprise more than 70% of the dry weight of the dermis. As we age, our own soluble collagen becomes less flexible and our skin's connective tissue loses its ability to retain moisture naturally.

Comfrey: A soothing and a powerful healer that aids in the regeneration of healthy new skin cells. It acts as an anti-inflammatory, astringent, and emollient. Comfrey, which contains allantoin, has impressive wound healing properties and may be used externally to speed wound healing and help prevent scar tissue.

Corundum Crystals: A mild exfoliator that sloughs away dull skin cells, free pores of impurities and helps correct environmental damage.

Dermaxyl® Anti-Aging Complex: (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide) an anti-aging, multi peptide that rehydrates the skin by improving the ceramide activity in the skin, assisting in the reduction of sun damaged cells and the prevention of DNA damage. In addition, it helps improve the production of collagen and elastin, which in turn helps “plump” up the skin thereby reducing the depth of wrinkles and fine lines. In observed clinical trials lasting 56 days, results show a volume reduction up to 36% in wrinkle depth.

Echinacea: Derived from the wood of the Echinacea plant, this ingredient provides antibacterial and healing agents. In skin care products, it features anti-itching and soothing properties.

EcoSkin: a ProBiotic complex designed to reinforce the natural defense barriers of the skin.

Egg White: natural firming and tightening properties; made up of water and lipids. An excellent emollient and water binding agent for the skin.

Emblica: extracted from the Phyllanthus Emblica fruit; Brightens the skin naturally and safely by scavenging free radicals to reduce oxidative stress and inhibiting metalloprotease activity. A skin lightening agent shown to also soften age signs, deep wrinkles, and lines as much as 68-90% in independent tests.

Emu Oil: proven all-natural anti-inflammatory, skin cell nutrient, emollient, anti-wrinkle, and skin softening product.

Eyeseryl: an anti-aging, tetra-peptide with anti-oedema properties clinically shown to decrease puffy eyebags.

GABA: works to further soften and relax muscles preventing premature aging.

Ginkgo Biloba: Increases oxygen in the cells, with energizing effects on the skin.

Glycerin: softening agent to condition freshly exfoliated skin.

Glycolic Acid: an AHA with natural exfoliation properties.

Grape Seed Extract: potent anti-oxidant with wound healing properties

Grapefruit Seed: Purifying, energizing effect with moisturizing and cleansing action. Powerful antioxidant known to fight free radicals and protect collagen and elastin.

Green Tea: Helps prevent cellular changes associated with sun exposure, has an exceptional anti-free radical effect, promoting a younger, fresher appearance- boosts a sunscreens action to protect against free radical damage. Clinically proven to prevent cellular damage caused by exposure to UV rays.

Haloxyl: a multi-peptide with a neutralizing effect on under eye circles resulting in cutaneous reinforcement and a noticeable reduction of dark circle pigmentation.

Horse Chestnut: helps to increase blood flow, strengthen connective tissue, and decrease redness. One of its compounds, Aescin, has been found to close the small pores in the walls of the veins, making them less permeable thus strengthening the vein walls and reducing leakage of fluid into the surrounding tissues.

Huberderm™ 1000: engineered for better shine control and reduction of excess sebum, which not only is a contributing factor to acne, but can also cause undesirable make-up shade change.

Hyaluronic Acid: Occurs naturally in cells, plumping the skin by holding water, up to 1,000 times its weight in natural moisture. A lightweight texture, with super hydrating properties. Topically, it can immediately improve the look of crows feet, wrinkles and fine lines.

Hyaluronic Filling Spheres™: a remarkable, sponge-like absorbency that captures the body's natural water, causing a plump appearance to thinned-out lip lines.

Jojoba Butter Beads: mineral releasing beads dissolve for total-moisture treatment

Jojoba Extract: know for its hydrating and softening properties

Jojoba Oil: An excellent carrier oil base, with hydrating properties.

Kojic Acid: a natural product with antioxidizing properties proven successful in lightening pigment spots and skin discoloration.

L-Ascorbic Acid: collagen boosting Vitamin C, also works to strengthen capillary walls for firm skin tone. Shown to help control hyperpigmentation and to enhance the skin’s immune system.

Lemon Oil: Kick starts the process of illumination of the skin.

Licorice Extract: contains anti-inflammatory properties and can act as an inhibitor of UVB induced pigmentation and erythema.

Liftensyl: immediate tightening “flash” effect that helps reduce the appearance of crows feet, fine lines and wrinkles. Results in a smoother appearance for the delicate skin around the eyes.

Manuka Honey: exclusive to the New Zealand region; renown for its anti-microbial, anti-bacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. Effective in retaining moisture and softening the skin.

Matrixyl: an anti-aging, multi-peptide clinically shown to decrease wrinkle volume and density resulting in a significant decrease in the appearance of wrinkles.

Matrixyl™ 3000: an anti-aging, dual peptide clinically shown to decrease wrinkle volume and density resulting in a significant decrease in the appearance of wrinkles.

  • Decreases wrinkle depth and volume up to 65%
  • Decreases wrinkle density and the visual appearance of wrinkles
  • Increases skin firmness & thickness
  • Increases and promotes collagen synthesis

Mushroom Extract: an anti-inflammatory that helps reduce skin irritation and can impact the appearance of fine lines and collagen production.

Orange Oil: Reduces oily and acne conditions and helps treat congested skin. It also improves tone and smoothness.

Panthenol: (Provitamin B5): contains potent moisturizing and regenerating properties.

Papaya Enzyme: excellent exfoliating properties gently remove dead-skin cells.

Pentavitin Moisture Magnet: a patented, highly effective moisturizer containing naturally occurring carbohydrates, similar to the natural carbohydrate fraction found in the skin. Due to it’s natural structure and composition, Pentavitin acts as a highly effective moisture regulator resulting in long-lasting water retention in the skin. In the nails, it increases flexibility reducing breakage and chipping.

Phytosphingosine: tremendously effective in regulating damaged epithelial (closely packed) cells

Phytotonine: (Vitamin K)- is composed of concentrated hydroglycolic extracts of Arnica, Cypress and Solomon's Seal. The virtues of these plants, rich in flavonoids, saponosides and procyanidols, are close to the activity of vitamin P, important for the microcirculation and strengthening of vein walls. A scientific investigation showed that the application of Phytononine for 3 weeks showed a 24% decrease in the redness of the affected area and a 25% reduction of extravascular blood flow, helping to improve the appearance of redness and broken capillaries.

Pineapple Enzyme: dead-cell digesting enzyme containing active substances that reduce inflammation.

Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein: a purified protein faction isolated from pure New Zealand wool.  This hydrolyzed keratin is capable of moisturizing the skin and strengthening the nails.  Made using a proprietary process which leaves the natural cystine content of the keratin in an active form. It is the high proportion of these groups that enable ProSina to cross link with the keratin in nails resulting in the integrity and cohesion of the nail plate. Furthermore, this functionality has anti-oxidant behavior which allows it to actively remove harmful radicals.

  • maintains integrity/cohesion of nails
  • improves the condition of damaged skin/nails
  • protects skin/nails from damage associated with exposure to solvent
  • improves the hydration of dry skin/nails
  • improves the elasticity of dry skin/nails

Pro-Vitamin B5: contains potent moisturizing and regenerating properties.

Retinol: helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone.

Retinol (Vitamin A): essential for the development of healthy skin cells, it adjusts skin cell re-growth and collagen reproduction.

Retinyl Acetate: a natural derivative of Vitamin A that assists to restore sun damaged skin and skin cell integrity lost as a result of harmful UV-rays, environmental toxins and free radicals.

Retinyl Palmitate: a natural lipid soluble form of retinol that assists to help break down skin thickness.

RetiSTAR™ Stabilized Retinol: improves the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and improves photo-damaged skin. Retinol also has a normalizing effect on skin pigmentation.

Rice Bran Extract: provides many potential benefits including moisturizing, toning, tightening and regenerating effects resulting in softer and suppler feeling skin.

Safflower: Known for its moisturizing and softening properties. Utilized for decoctions for skin eruptions, acne and skin blemishes.

Salicylic Acid: a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)- an exfoliant that has the ability to penetrate into the pore as well as on the surface of the skin. Extremeley effective for reducing blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. It also improves skin thickness, barrier functions, and collagen production.

SepiLift: a triple forming active for rejuvenation, moisturization, and skin plumping.

Sesaflash: a tightening agent that provides a noticeable and instantaneous skin firming effect on fragile capillaries together with a sensation of soothing comfort and softness.

Shea Butter: Gives skin a soft and silky texture with an exceptional moisturizer that has powerful anti-oxidant action helps nourish, soothe and trap valuable moisture in the skin for that lovely glowing complexion.

SNAP-8: a neuropeptide containing six amino acids that work to improve the appearance of aging skin. Clinically proven to relax tension in the skin.

Sodium PCA: a fantastic humectant that keeps your skin hydrated without leaving a greasy residue.

Soy Protein: known for its excellent conditioning and strengthening properties.

SPF 15: 100% mineral filters: protects skin against harmful UVA/UVB and infrared rays.

Sunflower Extract: anti-inflammatory

Sunflower Seed Oil:

Vitamin A: Useful for regenerating skin and encouraging cellular renewal. Proven to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Helps remedy rough, dry skin and has been used in the treatment of psoriasis.

Vitamin C: collagen boosting Vitamin C, also works to strengthen capillary walls for firm skin tone. Shown to help control hyperpigmentation and to enhance the skin’s immune system.

Vitamin E: Supplies oxygen and nourishes the cells, protects against environmental free radicals, excellent anti-inflammatory effects, keeps skin supple and elastic. One of the most compelling natural fat-soluble antioxidants in use, particularly when combined with vitamin A.

Watercress Extract: stimulates the natural production of collagen, consolidating the structure of the dermis and helping seal water molecules in the skin.

Willow Leaf Extract: used to cleanse pores and exfoliate skin gently, yet effectively.

Zeolite Technology: provides an instant and invigorating burst of heat sensation


Terms that Describe Activity of the Ingredient

Antioxidants: We are finding more and more present in our skin care these days, and for good reason. Our environment can severely damage our skin by oxidizing and deteriorating our cells, like rust on a car, in the form of free radicals. Antioxidants fight free radicals, and prevent much of this damage.

Binding Agent: Substances that hold products together and prevents separation of the water and lipid components.

Emollients: Substances that smooth and soften the skin. There are literally several hundred emollients, each providing its own individual texture to the skin.

Emulsion: A blend of oil and water into a single smooth product. Humectants: Substances that can attract water, usually out of the air. By definition, all humectants are also moisturizers.

Lubricants: Substances that make skin feel smoother to the touch and reduce friction.

Preservatives: Substances that kill detrimental bacteria, yeast and/or molds, thus prevent spoilage. Preservatives are not a bad thing.

Solvents: Substances, such as alcohol or water, which dissolve other ingredients.

Surfactants: Substances that enable a topical product to easily spread and glide across the skin.

Vehicle: The base that carries the active ingredients.