What You Need to Know
This week the European Union has officially banned TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), a common photoinitiator in gel manicures, citing evidence that it may be carcinogenic and toxic to reproduction and fertility. TPO’s role is to initiate the hardening process under UV/LED lamps, giving gels their glossy, fast-drying finish. But here’s the concern: when exposed to UV light, TPO can break down into reactive byproducts that may cause cellular damage. Combined with the UV exposure itself—already linked to premature skin aging and increased skin cancer risk—this creates a twofold threat:
- The ingredient’s toxicological profile, raising red flags for fertility and carcinogenicity.
- The compounded damage from its activation and breakdown under UV/LED curing.
While TPO remains permitted in the U.S., the EU’s landmark decision signals mounting global scrutiny of nail enhancement products. The message is clear: it’s not just about how your nails look in the moment—it’s about the long-term effects of chemical and UV exposure.
Why the EU Ban Matters
The TPO ban represents a regulatory wake-up call: if an ingredient so widely used can be deemed unsafe, the industry must adapt. Much like the shift away from parabens and formaldehyde in skincare, nails are now at the center of ingredient safety conversations and the impact will be seen in two ways:
- Salons must reevaluate their systems and formulations.
- Consumers will increasingly demand non-toxic, transparent, and restorative alternatives they can trust.
The Hidden Risks of Enhancements
Manicures today are more than a beauty ritual- they’re a pretty form of self-expression. Yet beneath that perfect polish, there are potential risks to nail and overall health. Here are some pros and cons to each type.
Gel Nails
Pros: Glossy and a long-lasting
finish.
Cons: Ingredient concerns- The EU ban on TPO underscores risks to
fertility and reproductive health; U.S. regulation is still pending. UV
exposure- Repeated curing accelerates skin aging and raises cancer risk Harsh
removal- Acetone soaking and peeling dehydrate and weaken nails.
Acrylic (Powder) Nails
Pros: Durable and accessible.
Cons: Buffing thins and compromises nail integrity. Chemicals like MMA
and toluene are known irritants and health hazards.
Dip Powder Nails
Pros: Flexible, durable coverage
without UV.
Cons: Repeated buffing still weakens nails. Some formulas and adhesives may
trigger allergies. Infection risks rise when sanitation practices are poor.
How to Restore and Protect Your Nails
The good news: nails can bounce back with targeted, science-driven care.
- Repair & Strengthen: Phyto Strong Natural Nail Duo rebuilds fragile nails using soy keratin, bamboo extract, and squalane.
- Advanced Rehab: The Natural Nail Repair Kit layers Protein Peptides, Glycolic Acid, Tremella Mushroom, and Vitamin E to exfoliate, seal, and reinforce strength.
- Clean Removal & Care: Extracts 3-in-1 Nail Polish Remover Wipes take the place of acetone removers. With an antioxidant-rich formula that dissolves polish while hydrating nails and cuticles, preventing the brittleness acetone often leaves behind.
Together, these create a comprehensive nail wellness system—repairing past damage, protecting nail health, and ensuring lasting strength.
Dermelect: Leading the Nail Wellness Movement
By prioritizing wellness as the foundation of beauty, Dermelect isn’t reacting to industry changes—it’s setting the standard. As nail care shifts from cosmetic to wellness-first, Dermelect is proud to have started this discussion over 15 years ago and continues to lead the category. Unlike brands that scramble to reformulate after bans, Dermelect has always stood for clean, clinically proven nail wellness solutions. From restorative repair kits to nourishing nail and hand treatments, Dermelect supports every step of nail health. Developed with ingredients traditionally found in skincare and without any controversial chemicals. Our innovative, good for you formulas are 10+ Free, Cruelty Free and Gluten Free!
The EU’s ban on TPO is a turning point for the nail industry, shining a light on the long-term risks of popular enhancements. While gels, acrylics, and dips may deliver short-lived perfection, they often compromise lasting nail health. With our clinically backed, wellness-driven approach, Dermelect continues to redefine what it means to achieve strong, beautiful, and naturally healthy nails.