Can You Really Treat Lip Lines? Here's What You Need to Know
Let’s be honest: lip lines—whether you call them smoker lines, laugh lines, or simply vertical lip wrinkles—are one of those pesky skin concerns that seem to appear out of nowhere and stubbornly stick around. They can soften lipstick lines, cast shadows above the upper lip, and contribute to an overall tired appearance—even when you feel anything but.
But the good news? You don’t have to just accept them. With the right understanding and skincare strategies, you can smooth the look of these fine lines and restore a more youthful, plump appearance to your lips and the surrounding skin. Here's everything you need to know about what causes lip lines, why they’re so common, and how to treat them—without a needle.
First Things First: What Are Lip Lines?
Lip lines—also called perioral lines—are the fine vertical lines that form around the lips, especially the upper lip. They're sometimes known as "smoker lines," but don’t be fooled—anyone can get them, even if they’ve never touched a cigarette. You might also hear people refer to them as lipstick lines, since color can settle into the creases and make them more visible.
Another common term? Laugh lines. While these typically refer to the nasolabial folds (the deeper creases that run from the sides of your nose to the corners of your mouth), both areas are part of the same story: they’re caused by repetitive facial movement, gradual collagen loss, and a natural slowing down of cell regeneration as we age.
What Causes Lip Lines?
Like most signs of aging, lip lines don’t appear overnight. Instead, they develop gradually thanks to a perfect storm of internal and external factors. Here's what’s working against your lip area:
1. Loss of Collagen and Elastin
As early as your late 20s, your skin begins to produce less collagen—the protein responsible for plump, firm, youthful skin. Over time, this decline results in thinner, less elastic skin. Since the skin around your mouth is already thinner than most other areas, it’s often the first to show signs of aging.
2. Sun Damage
UV radiation is one of the fastest ways to break down collagen. And if you're not applying SPF directly to your lips and the surrounding skin, sun damage can creep in quickly, causing the area to age faster than the rest of your face.
3. Repetitive Movements
Every time you sip through a straw, purse your lips, or even talk, you’re engaging the muscles around your mouth. Over time, this repetitive movement creates creases that eventually become etched into your skin.
4. Smoking
This one is self-explanatory—but yes, smoking significantly accelerates the appearance of lip lines. It limits blood flow, slows collagen production, and involves that same repetitive lip-puckering motion that speeds up the formation of fine lines.
5. Dehydration
Dry skin lacks the elasticity needed to “bounce back,” which can make lip lines appear deeper. Add in the fact that lips have no oil glands of their own, and moisture becomes even more crucial.
Can You Actually Treat Lip Lines?
The short answer: yes, but patience and consistency are key.
While no topical product will work like an injectable, certain skincare ingredients have been shown to make a visible difference in the appearance of lip lines by deeply hydrating, gently resurfacing, and boosting collagen production over time.
Here’s what to look for—and how to build a routine that supports smoother, more supple skin around your mouth.
1. Start With a Gentle Exfoliant
When treating fine lines, exfoliation is your first step. By sloughing away dead skin cells, you help reveal a fresher, smoother surface underneath while making it easier for your other products to penetrate.
Look for a gentle exfoliating treatment that combines AHAs (like glycolic acid) and peptides to resurface and support firmness—especially one that’s safe for use around the mouth.
Use it 2-3 times a week at night, and always follow with SPF in the morning. Exfoliated skin is more susceptible to sun damage, which can undo your progress if you’re not careful.
2. Target With a Line-Filling Treatment
To visibly smooth the look of vertical lines, consider a targeted treatment that’s designed specifically for the delicate upper lip area.
Look for formulas packed with moisture-binding ingredients like hyaluronic acid, peptides, and antioxidants. A formula that works as a lip treatment can help improve the appearance of feathering, shadows, and volume loss.
Apply it gently above the lip line in the morning and evening. With regular use, you’ll notice improved hydration and a visibly smoother lip contour.
3. Layer On the Moisture
Hydration is non-negotiable. Well-hydrated skin is more elastic, which helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and prevents new ones from forming as easily.
Look for a nourishing, barrier-supporting moisturizer that helps lock in hydration and strengthens the skin’s natural defenses. If your skin is especially dry or sensitive, consider layering it over a lightweight hydrating serum or essence.
4. Add an Overnight Boost
The hours your skin spends repairing overnight are prime time for treating signs of aging. Using a skin barrier repairing serum designed to improve the look of texture and fine lines—especially one that includes collagen-boosting peptides, amino acids, and hydrating agents.
This can double as a nighttime lip mask when applied to the lips and upper lip area before bed, helping to soften the appearance of lines while you sleep.
5. Protect Daily With SPF
One of the best ways to treat lip lines is to prevent them from worsening. And that means sunscreen—every single day.
Choose a broad-spectrum SPF that’s safe for the entire face and make sure you’re covering the lip area, too. Even better? Look for lip balms that include SPF and reapply throughout the day. Sun damage is cumulative, and protecting this delicate area now pays off years later.
The Bottom Line
Lip lines, smoker lines, laugh lines—no matter what you call them, you can reduce their appearance and prevent them from becoming more prominent. The secret lies in consistency, hydration, and the right mix of clinically backed ingredients.
Start by gently exfoliating, then follow up with a targeted lip zone treatment and barrier-repairing moisture. Add in sun protection and a few overnight boosts, and you’ve got a routine that works with your skin, not against it.
The result? Softer, smoother-looking skin around the mouth and lips that feel just as confident as the rest of your face.
