Lip lines are a common skincare concern, often affecting the smooth texture and youthful look of the delicate skin around the mouth. These lines often include "Smoker's Lines” which appear as parenthesis lines around the lips, vertical wrinkles that occur between tip of the nose and the upper lip, and smile lines which are creases extending from the corners of the nose to the sides of the mouth. If you are curious about what causes lip lines or how to address them effectively, you’ve come to the right place. Below we'll delve deeper into the causes (such as repetitive lip movements and sun exposure) along with common misconceptions. Additionally, we’ll offer tips for caring for the skin around your lips, along with a note on how specifically formulated products can make a difference.

Lip Lines at a Glance

According to the Cleveland Clinic, lip lines typically appear around the “vermillion border”, (just above the natural lip line) and can become more pronounced due to repetitive actions (such as sipping through a straw), sun exposure, smoking, alcohol consumption and the natural aging process.   

Signs of Lip Lines

As we age, several changes can occur around the mouth area:  

Fine Vertical Creases:
These lines are often start faint initially but can deepen with time. These lines can be referred to as: vertical lip lines, barcode lines, or perioral lines.

Noticeable Creases and Wrinkles: 
You may have noticed that your nasolabial folds, often called smile lines, have become more prominent. Additionally, you might notice vertical lines that extend from the corners of the mouth to the chin, commonly referred to as marionette lines, which can give the appearance of a frown.  

Lipstick Bleeding: 
A classic sign of developing lip lines is when your lipstick starts to feather or bleed beyond the natural border of your lips.  

Sagging Skin and Loss of Elasticity: 
When the skin around the mouth starts to lose its firmness, it can lead to sagging and the formation of deep wrinkles.

Thinning Lips:
With age lips lose their volume and appear thinner.  As lips lose volume and vertical lines set in, the overall shape can become less defined.   

What Causes Lip Lines?

Repetitive Lip Movements:
Sipping on your daily iced latte through a straw can encourage lip lines, if you’re regularly pursing your lips. According to Dr. Theva Thevakumar the skin around the mouth area is particularly vulnerable because it is thin, making it prone to creasing with repeated motions.

Smoking or Vaping:
It’s no coincidence that vertical lip lines are commonly dubbed “Smokers Lines." Smoking involves both the pursing of lips and exposure to toxins that break down both collagen and elastin. The effects can persist for years, even after ending either habit.

Sun Exposure:
The sun’s powerful UV rays can accelerate collagen breakdown, leading to fine lines, and wrinkles. Additionally, sun exposure is a main culprit of hyperpigmentation and discoloration in the skin.  

Bleaching & Waxing:
Frequent waxing or bleaching of the upper lip can irritate the delicate area if done too harshly or too often. Over time, the irritation can weaken the skin barrier, making lines appear more pronounced. Opt for gentle formulas and follow up with calming aftercare.

Dehydration & Lifestyle Factors:
According to TopLine MD, "lifestyle factors like hydration, diet, and even stress management play a significant role in skin health,” When the skin is dehydrated both internally and externally, it will typically show more creasing around the mouth.

Melasma:
This pigmentation issue is often a result of hormonal changes and typically appears on the upper lip and creates shadowy, unsightly patches of darkness. While lip lines are not a direct result of melasma, the discoloration draws more attention to the area and any existing creases.

Myth Vs. Truth Lip Line Edition

Myth: Once you have lip lines, there’s nothing you can do.  

Reality: Although completely erasing lip lines can be challenging, consistent sun protection, targeted skincare, and professional treatments can significantly reduce their appearance over time.  

Myth: You can’t get Smoker’s Lines if you don’t smoke.   

Reality: Smoking does speed up the development of lip lines, however non-smokers can also develop lip lines due to the natural aging process, frequent use of straws, sun exposure, and repeated facial expressions.  

Myth: Applying hydrating lip balms on the lips can prevent upper lip wrinkles.   

Reality: While lip balms hydrate the lips, it does not address the areas around the lips, where vertical lines actually form. For that, you need products formulated for the perioral area. 

Prevention & Treatment Options

Proper Hydration, Inside & Out:
When skin cells lack adequate moisture, fine lines can appear more prominent. Make sure to drink enough water daily and use a hydrating moisturizer, paying close attention to the perioral area. Don’t forget to hydrate your lips themselves, with a nourishing balm or ointment.   

Sun Protection:
The regular use of sunscreen can protect the skin from harmful UV rays that accelerate the aging process.  Using sunscreen daily (or even makeup containing SPF) around your mouth can help protect against new damage.   

Healthy Lifestyle Choices:
Avoiding smoking and limiting your alcohol intake can help prevent the breakdown of collagen and elastin, two essential proteins that help maintain skin’s firmness and elasticity.   

Gentle Exfoliation:
Exfoliating 1-2 times a week can help to remove dead skin cells that cause the area around your lips to appear dull and creased. Avoid harsh scrubs, opt for a mild chemical exfoliant or a gentle scrub designed for delicate skin.   

Limit Excessive Pursing: 
Cutting back on straw use and being mindful of frequent puckering or lip movements can help minimize stress on the skin around the mouth. Small lifestyle tweaks can slow down the progression of existing lines and help prevent new ones from forming.   

Use Targeted Formulas:
Integrating specialized products into your routine can make a noticeable impact. Look for treatments rich in both moisture binding agents and brightening ingredients to help soften those pesky vertical lines and fade shadowy hyperpigmentation.  

* Tip For the best results, opt for formulas that target the skin around the mouth rather than the lips alone.  For a targeted solution, consider Dermelect’s Smooth Upper Lip Professional. The advanced treatment is specifically formulated to address the visible signs of mouth aging by hydrating, smoothing, and brightening the delicate skin around the mouth. The supercharged formulation features a unique combination of Retinol, Alpha Arbutin and Hyaluronic Filling Spheres to address the appearance of vertical lines, laugh lines, and discoloration. Additionally, the extra strength formula offers a non-invasive alternative (or complement) to fillers or injections.  

Professional Treatments:
If you have very deep, settled lines that require a little more heavy lifting, also adding professional treatments such as fillers, micro-needling and laser resurfacing. The Victorian Cosmetic Institute confirms that these procedures can complement a well-rounded at home routine for more dramatic results.  Incorporating these preventive measures and treatments can help preserve a youthful appearance while minimizing the visibility of lip lines and other age-related changes around the mouth.  

The Final Word

Lip lines don't need to be a lasting part of your appearance. With a better understanding of what causes them and the right combination of preventative care and targeted treatments, you can visibly soften their appearance and maintain a more youthful look. Keep your skin protected, stay hydrated and incorporate targeted solutions to support smoother, younger-looking skin. 

Sources:

The Cleveland Clinic
TopLine MD
Dr. Theva
The Victorian Cosmetic Institute